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How to Do Even Count Tubular Peyote (ECTP)
ECTP is sometimes called circular peyote, or round peyote; (but not to be confused with FLAT ROUND peyote).
It would be helpful if you we’re already familiar with Flat Peyote, but it isn’t necessary.
Like flat peyote, tubular peyote is still a matter of filling in the spaces left between two beads, and each ‘row’ is still one-half the height of the bead you are using. The thing to remember straight off, is that flat peyote is basically one-dimensional, tubular peyote is more three dimensional. When doing flat peyote, as you turn to start a new row, and string on a bead, and weave it in, you automatically ‘step up’ into the next row. With tubular peyote, you will have to make a mental note to ‘step up’ at the end of each row. Why? Because in flat peyote the end of a row is very obvious, in tubular you have to get used to how the ‘end of a row’ looks, because you are going in a circle, and the end of the row, meets back around with the beginning of the row. It won’t take long to get used to the look and feel of the end of a tubular row, and the necessity to ‘Step Up’.
Example of Flat Peyote ‘Step Up’:
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A) In flat peyote your needle is coming out of the last bead of a row. You will:
B) String on your next bead (red), turn the needle back to the work, and ‘Step Up’ through the first bead of the next higher row.
C) That bead (red) fits into place, and you continue with the row.
Example of Tubular Peyote ‘Step Up’: Weaving is being done around a form, a brass tube from the project parts.
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A) Tubular peyote rows have the same ‘notch’ pattern of holes to be filled-in by beads as does flat peyote, and all other peyote stitches.
B) But, in tubular, when you are ready to put on the last bead of a row, the look of the work is different than in flat peyote. When working tubular, the end of a ‘row’ isn’t as obvious as in flat peyote.
You now have what looks more like ‘steps’.
C)String on the last bead of the row, take the needle, as usual, through the next bead, then ‘STEP UP’. That is – Take the needle directly on through the next (adjacent left) bead. There is no ‘notch’ between this step up, and do not add a bead. You are just stepping through and Up.
This puts you in the next row up, in the proper position to start filling in ‘notches’ as usual. The bead you just stepped up through is actually the first bead of the row you are just now finishing. Tubular peyote is 3-D, circular, so naturally, each row ‘meets’, and you must move the needle upward to be in place for the beginning of the next row.
This is the main and most important difference between Flat and Tubular Peyote. Missing this Step Up is common. You must get used to how it looks (like steps), rather than notches. You can ‘count’ beads to help you. Each row will have the same number of beads in it, for this example, 9 beads. Every time you string on that 9th bead, you know you will be taking the needle through the next bead as usual, then stepping up directly through the adjacent (next) bead, to be able to start the next row in the proper place.
Tubular Peyote step-by-step instructions.
The following instructions will teach you tubular peyote stitch. We will be using a ‘string on’ of 18 beads (Delica beads, size 11/0), which translates to 9 beads per row. This is the exact number needed for the Twist Pen, Ceiling Fan Pull, and Letter Opener.
In general, one of the things to be practiced concerning TP (Tubular Peyote) is getting an even tension. TP is used quite a bit for purses of all sizes. You must watch your tension so the ‘tube of beads’ is even all the way up the project.
This won’t be necessary on these projects. The ‘form’ to bead around for even tension is built-in. Each project utilizes a brass tube as part of the project. You will be beading directly on/around this tube.
1) Cut a 36″ length of bead string. Tie a bead about 4″ away form the end. This is your ‘stopper bead’ and keeps the beads from falling off the string.
2) String on 18 delicas.
Explanation of bead types:
A) beads shown with a dashed line inside – these represent the first beads you strung on consecutively to form a circle.
B) beads with a dashed line, and thick black line, and a box in the middle – these represent beads 1 & 2. THESE beads become, respectively, b1 r1, and b1 r2, after you have woven in your first beads, beads numbered 19 through 27 when numbered consecutively.
C) beads shown with just the thick black line inside – these represent beads you weave in as the first bead of each row.
D) beads with just the thin black outline – these represent beads you weave in, other than the first bead of each row.
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F) Needle Exits bead 2 |
E) Take the needle back through all 18 beads to form a circle.
F) Now, to be in the proper starting position to utilize the blank and patterned graph paper provided, go through the first 2 beads you strung on again. So your needle is coming out of the second bead you originally strung on.
Exiting from b2 puts you in the proper position necessary to use the tubular peyote graph paper, and have your pattern come out correctly. This is critical.
Now, put this circle around the brass tube. Make sure your stopper bead (the one that keeps all the bead from coming off the end of the string), is on the bottom of the circle.
3) The first 4 rows will be detailed, because they are a little harder to see exactly where to go next. Like many bead stitches, it takes a few rows before you can see what is going on, and switch to auto-pilot.
-String on one bead. Skip over b3 and take the needle thru b4. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b5 and take the needle thru b6. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b7 and take the needle thru b8. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b9 and take the needle thru b10. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b11 and take the needle thru b12. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b13 and take the needle thru b14. Pull taut.
-String on one bead. Skip over b15 and take the needle thru b18. Pull taut.
You have one more bead (b9) to weave into this row, but here are some important points:
a) Like all peyote stitches, your original beads (18), have now done a ‘jumping bean act’, as you wove in the next beads.
b)They now have the usual look of peyote, with ‘notches’ showing. Except at the very end, which we haven’t finished yet. (The beads will come into place better when the last bead of the row is put in.)
c)And now, you must start counting and looking at the ‘rows’ differently. What was a row of 18 beads, is now going to be 3 rows of 9 beads each, counted as follows: The below diagram is a ‘snapshot’ of the beads around the brass tube, just to each side of the stopper beads.
To finish this row (row 3) –
– String on one bead (b9). Skip over b1, take needle through b2, and directly up through the top left adjacent bead, (both marked with an asterisk). Pull taut.
The beads should look very uniform now, no gaps.
That was the end of row 3, and you did the Step Up in order to begin Row 4 in the proper place.
!!After you have made the initial circle of 18 beads, and you start adding in beads (which became row 3), you must keep watch on the beads. At this point in the weaving, the thread acts as an axis, around which the beads of Row 1 and 2 can ‘spin’ up or down over the thread and the beads that are already in the circle. If you are doing a solidly colored project, this doesn’t matter. But if you are following a pattern, you will have to manually check (and move) the beads (if necessary) as you are adding the beads for Row 3 to make sure each bead is in the proper place. The won’t happen after you are finished with Row 3.
4) If your work were laid out flat, starting at the edge where bead 1 was strung on , it would look like this:
This is the basic layout of most tubular peyote graphs.
5) Starting Row 4. Filling in the notches.
– String on one bead, this will be b1 of r4.
– Take the needle through the next bead, b20 (b2 r3), pull taut.
Continue filling in notches, until you have done a total of 8, including the one you just did:
Next,
-String on the next bead, b9 of row 4.
-You need to string this bead in, and then Step Up, in order to start row 5. Take the needle through bead 19 (which is b1 of r3), then without adding a bead, take the needle straight up and through b28 (which is b1 r4).
-Pull taut. If your work were a flat graph it would look like this:
6) Continue repeating instruction #5, doing rows in this manner, until your piece is finished.
As you can see from some of the above graphs, in tubular peyote, the 1st bead of each row moves to the left one space, (if you are right-handed, and work right to left while weaving). The beginning of the row in tubular peyote will always move, it just depends on which way you prefer to work.
7) When you reach the end of your pattern, string in the last bead, and Step Up. Tie off your work in any manner you are used to.
How to Read a Tubular Peyote Graph
As you do each row of TP, and Step Up at the end of each row, you are actually moving the beginning of each row to the left one notch. If you did a TP project in one solid color, but used a different color on the first bead of each row, the work would look like this:
This does not affect your patterns. You only see the beginning of each row because it is being pointed out to you. Otherwise, the work would flow without a visible beginning or end, just as other stitches. But, this trait of tubular peyote does make it a wonderful stitch to do spiral patterns with.
NOTE: The beads can be numbered on a dual basis. There area now 3 rows, of 9 beads each, Row 1 has beads numbered b1 thru b9. Row 2 has beads numbered b1 thru b9, etc. But, you can also keep track of them consecutively, as they were picked up with the needle. Thus, b1 r1, is also, consecutively added bead 19.
Why isn’t bead 19 right next to b18? Because, when we strung on the first 18 beads, and made a circle, instead of coming out of b18 and picking up a bead to start the next row, we went through beads 1 and 2 again, in order to be in the proper starting position.
All bead numbers referred to apply to the bead projects: Twist Pen, Ceiling Fan Pull, and Letter Opener. After you string on your original 18 beads, and form them into a circle, then pass the needle through beads 1 & 2 again, exiting from b2, you begin to weave in beads as explained in the tubular peyote stitch instructions above. It is critical that you exit from b2 (one time, where shown) in order to follow the chart/pattern, and have it come out correct.
As with all peyote stitches, after you have strung on and you begin to weave in your first beads, by the time you are done weaving in the first ‘row’, your bead have done a ‘jumping bead act’, and you now have 3 rows of 9 beads each.
Explanation of bead types:
A) beads shown with a dashed line inside – these represent the first beads you strung on consecutively to form a circle.
B) beads with a dashed line, and thick black line, and a box in the middle – these represent beads 1 & 2. THESE beads become, respectively, b1 r1, and b1 r2, after you have woven in your first beads, (beads numbered 19 through 27 when numbered consecutively).
C) beads shown with just the thick black line inside – these represent beads you weave in as the first bead of each row.
D) beads with just the thin black outline – these represent beads you weave in, other than the first bead of each row. In our example, they will be beads 2 through 9 of each row.
Each bead is shown below, in a tubular peyote graph. The graphs are shown flat, with bead 1 at the right hand edge of the graph. This graph should look familiar from the tubular peyote instructions above. This graph represents 4 completed rows. Notice that beads 1 and 2 are now signified as b1 r1 and b1 r2. Also notice, that the first bead of each row is moving one place to the left each time.
On a graph for Flat Peyote stitch, you read the entire row of beads from one side, across to the other. In tubular, you read starting from bead 1 of each row, all the way across to the left (in our graph), then you must move to the right hand side of the graph, same row, and read the remaining beads for that row, again from right to left.
